electrical box gap base of fixture Replacing some lights on the outside of the shop and the holes that the round boxes are set in are cut too big. I need lights with at least a 4.5" wide base to cover them. Those seem hard to find in my price point. Is there a . For over 30 years, Walters Metal Fabrication has been providing high quality structural steel and plate design fabrications for the manufacturing and construction industries. Our customers .
0 · surface mount box fixtures
1 · outdoor light fixtures on exposed box
2 · light fixtures on exposed round box
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Your fixture should have some kind of mounting strap that screws across diagonal holes in the box and your fixture probably then mounts to that strap. The problem is what you have is a 1 1/8" deep surface box (taken from box specifications). Get a 1/8: thick plate of aluminum, Cut it to be slightly larger than the base of his fixtures. Punch a 7/8" hole in it, and install a chase nipple in the hole. Drill and tap the plate to match the fixture mounting pattern, and holes . What you're looking for is some indication that the fixture housing itself is its own junction-box. If you find that is the case, then remove that . Replacing some lights on the outside of the shop and the holes that the round boxes are set in are cut too big. I need lights with at least a 4.5" wide base to cover them. Those seem hard to find in my price point. Is there a .
It seems unusual to have a 3/4" gap when the box is only 1/2" deep. Answers based on the National Electrical Code. Local amendments .The bracket needs to be installed in the electrical box first. Then when that is secured line up the light fixture to holes in the bracket and mount. Use a 6 ft ladder and a rising platform/person to hold the weight of the fixture
The box/mudring doesn't need to be flush on a non combustible wall finish (like drywall), it can be recessed up to 1/4 inch. This 1/8 inch gap rule applies to how big of a gap is .
There are many mounting options for light fixture boxes. The main choice is whether you nail or screw the box directly to a stud or ceiling joist or use an extendable mounting bar to which the box is attached. One of the main causes of the problem of trying to install a light fixture that doesn’t cover the junction box is that the light fixture itself is not compatible with the shape or size of . I could see the wing of the box too. It's clearly too small of a canopy, so blame it on the customer. FWIW, you can fix that in 60 seconds with white caulk. Go right over the wing of . Your fixture should have some kind of mounting strap that screws across diagonal holes in the box and your fixture probably then mounts to that strap. The problem is what you have is a 1 1/8" deep surface box (taken from box specifications).
Get a 1/8: thick plate of aluminum, Cut it to be slightly larger than the base of his fixtures. Punch a 7/8" hole in it, and install a chase nipple in the hole. Drill and tap the plate to match the fixture mounting pattern, and holes for the box mount. What you're looking for is some indication that the fixture housing itself is its own junction-box. If you find that is the case, then remove that inappropriately-placed pancake box from your wall and install the fixture directly onto the wall. Replacing some lights on the outside of the shop and the holes that the round boxes are set in are cut too big. I need lights with at least a 4.5" wide base to cover them. Those seem hard to find in my price point. Is there a better way. If I use a 4 1.4 it leaves a decent gap. It seems unusual to have a 3/4" gap when the box is only 1/2" deep. Answers based on the National Electrical Code. Local amendments may apply. Check with your local building officials. I'll post a few pics tonight to give you a better idea.
The fixture says that the base is 4" which is what you have now, but it would be barely covered. I would get 3 1/4" octagon boxes.
The bracket needs to be installed in the electrical box first. Then when that is secured line up the light fixture to holes in the bracket and mount. Use a 6 ft ladder and a rising platform/person to hold the weight of the fixture The box/mudring doesn't need to be flush on a non combustible wall finish (like drywall), it can be recessed up to 1/4 inch. This 1/8 inch gap rule applies to how big of a gap is allowed between the edge of the box/mud ring and opening in the finish.There are many mounting options for light fixture boxes. The main choice is whether you nail or screw the box directly to a stud or ceiling joist or use an extendable mounting bar to which the box is attached. I've got a bit of a dilemma with walls that are thicker than what the original electrical layout allowed for. All of the boxes (switches, light fixtures, outlets, etc.) are anchored to studs and/or rafters and set at a depth that would be fitting for some thin paneling or drywall.
Your fixture should have some kind of mounting strap that screws across diagonal holes in the box and your fixture probably then mounts to that strap. The problem is what you have is a 1 1/8" deep surface box (taken from box specifications). Get a 1/8: thick plate of aluminum, Cut it to be slightly larger than the base of his fixtures. Punch a 7/8" hole in it, and install a chase nipple in the hole. Drill and tap the plate to match the fixture mounting pattern, and holes for the box mount. What you're looking for is some indication that the fixture housing itself is its own junction-box. If you find that is the case, then remove that inappropriately-placed pancake box from your wall and install the fixture directly onto the wall. Replacing some lights on the outside of the shop and the holes that the round boxes are set in are cut too big. I need lights with at least a 4.5" wide base to cover them. Those seem hard to find in my price point. Is there a better way. If I use a 4 1.4 it leaves a decent gap.
It seems unusual to have a 3/4" gap when the box is only 1/2" deep. Answers based on the National Electrical Code. Local amendments may apply. Check with your local building officials. I'll post a few pics tonight to give you a better idea. The fixture says that the base is 4" which is what you have now, but it would be barely covered. I would get 3 1/4" octagon boxes.
The bracket needs to be installed in the electrical box first. Then when that is secured line up the light fixture to holes in the bracket and mount. Use a 6 ft ladder and a rising platform/person to hold the weight of the fixture
The box/mudring doesn't need to be flush on a non combustible wall finish (like drywall), it can be recessed up to 1/4 inch. This 1/8 inch gap rule applies to how big of a gap is allowed between the edge of the box/mud ring and opening in the finish.
There are many mounting options for light fixture boxes. The main choice is whether you nail or screw the box directly to a stud or ceiling joist or use an extendable mounting bar to which the box is attached.
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electrical box gap base of fixture|surface mount box fixtures