electrical box too close to door king stud spacer block If I mount the light switch box directly to the king stud of the doorway, the door trim will interfere with the switch plate, so I wanted to bump the box out by putting a short scrap of . Your pilot-hole drill-bit size will depend on the size of your sheet metal screw. A size-4 screw should have a pilot-hole drill size of 3/32 inches; size 6, 7/64 inches; size 8, 1/8 inches; size 10, 9/64 inches; size 12, 5/32 inches; size 14 .
0 · electrical
1 · Tips for securing one side of a loose electrical box?
2 · Options to Frame around Electrical Panel
3 · Hole is too big to secure old work box. : r/askanelectrician
4 · Fix Crooked Outlet or Switch Covers
5 · Exterior wall box options
6 · Electrical box recessed too far : r/HomeImprovement
7 · Can I notch 1/2” from a stud to fit a 3 gang box in between two studs?
8 · Boxes recessed too deep
I am looking for some opinions on where other people like to place the 110V and 220V elec outlets in a closet made specifically for a full size washer and dryer that can be stacked with the dryer on top.First, this has to be a properly installed ceiling fan box - you can't put a fan on a lamp box because the dynamic forces of the vibration will tear it .
If I mount the light switch box directly to the king stud of the doorway, the door trim will interfere with the switch plate, so I wanted to bump the box out by putting a short scrap of . I've got a bit of a dilemma with walls that are thicker than what the original electrical layout allowed for. All of the boxes (switches, light fixtures, outlets, etc.) are anchored to studs .Reinstall screws using sppropriate thickness spacers. Yes, I use regular nuts as shims that are just slightly larger than the bolts that secure the switches. Just slide the required nuts over the . I need to rough-in boxes for exterior lights, receptacles, door access systems, etc. From the outside edge of the metal studs to the finished exterior is about 3". Any advice on .
The front tabs would rest on the spacer. The back tabs/feet should be long enough to still grip the drywall sufficiently. If the hole is even too large for the feet, then you'd need to repair or shim . In the processing of correcting this with box extenders & spacers as needed I'm noticing another issue. The gang boxes are secured on one side to the metal stud. The other .
Learn tricks of the trade to fix a crooked outlet or straighten an uneven light switch plate cover. Whether your electrical device is mounted at an angle, or your junction box is tilted up or back, .
The wall does go perpendicular to the steel beam, but it’s on the top floor and above it is an attic with nothing above but a roof. So I am assuming it’s not a load bearing wall. . You can also move that stud a little further away from the panel for a more aesthetic wall/door angle to the room. Here is where it all blends together aesthetically, you . If I mount the light switch box directly to the king stud of the doorway, the door trim will interfere with the switch plate, so I wanted to bump the box out by putting a short scrap of 2x4 between the box and the king stud. Is there anything in the NEC that prohibits that? That's common practice. I've got a bit of a dilemma with walls that are thicker than what the original electrical layout allowed for. All of the boxes (switches, light fixtures, outlets, etc.) are anchored to studs and/or rafters and set at a depth that would be fitting for some thin paneling or drywall.
There are boxes made that are of a thicker material and less likely to flex. Others have a tab on the side away from the stud that a false stud can be screwed to to support the far side. For larger gang boxes there are support wires that attach to the studs. If the door is designed to swing into the structure you may want to reconsider the idea of placing an electrical outlet right next to the hinge side of the door jamb. Things plugged in there could get pinched as the door swung all the way in. I have an electrical box that is set about 1/8" too deep in the wall so when the switchplate is installed the receptable plugs are sunken into the plate and recessed. How can I position the outlet farther out so that it is flush with the switchplate? Reinstall screws using sppropriate thickness spacers. Yes, I use regular nuts as shims that are just slightly larger than the bolts that secure the switches. Just slide the required nuts over the bolts until the switch is the correct distance from the face of the drywall.
My contractor had to re-adjust the outlet boxes set by the electrician because he did not allow for the 1/2" drywall. but then the contractor set a couple of them too far out and they extend beyond the drywall.
I need to rough-in boxes for exterior lights, receptacles, door access systems, etc. From the outside edge of the metal studs to the finished exterior is about 3". Any advice on box/mud-ring mounting options? The front tabs would rest on the spacer. The back tabs/feet should be long enough to still grip the drywall sufficiently. If the hole is even too large for the feet, then you'd need to repair or shim the back also. In the processing of correcting this with box extenders & spacers as needed I'm noticing another issue. The gang boxes are secured on one side to the metal stud. The other side is unsecured which allows for a lot of "give" or "springback" on the unsecured side of the box. If I mount the light switch box directly to the king stud of the doorway, the door trim will interfere with the switch plate, so I wanted to bump the box out by putting a short scrap of 2x4 between the box and the king stud. Is there anything in the NEC that prohibits that? That's common practice.
I've got a bit of a dilemma with walls that are thicker than what the original electrical layout allowed for. All of the boxes (switches, light fixtures, outlets, etc.) are anchored to studs and/or rafters and set at a depth that would be fitting for some thin paneling or drywall. There are boxes made that are of a thicker material and less likely to flex. Others have a tab on the side away from the stud that a false stud can be screwed to to support the far side. For larger gang boxes there are support wires that attach to the studs. If the door is designed to swing into the structure you may want to reconsider the idea of placing an electrical outlet right next to the hinge side of the door jamb. Things plugged in there could get pinched as the door swung all the way in. I have an electrical box that is set about 1/8" too deep in the wall so when the switchplate is installed the receptable plugs are sunken into the plate and recessed. How can I position the outlet farther out so that it is flush with the switchplate?
Reinstall screws using sppropriate thickness spacers. Yes, I use regular nuts as shims that are just slightly larger than the bolts that secure the switches. Just slide the required nuts over the bolts until the switch is the correct distance from the face of the drywall. My contractor had to re-adjust the outlet boxes set by the electrician because he did not allow for the 1/2" drywall. but then the contractor set a couple of them too far out and they extend beyond the drywall.
I need to rough-in boxes for exterior lights, receptacles, door access systems, etc. From the outside edge of the metal studs to the finished exterior is about 3". Any advice on box/mud-ring mounting options?
The front tabs would rest on the spacer. The back tabs/feet should be long enough to still grip the drywall sufficiently. If the hole is even too large for the feet, then you'd need to repair or shim the back also.
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Tips for securing one side of a loose electrical box?
Electrical boxes come in metal and plastic and in a wide range of shapes and sizes. Choosing the right size is important because it's unsafe—and illegal—to cram too many wires and devices into a box. Both plastic and metal electrical boxes are suitable for most household projects.
electrical box too close to door king stud spacer block|Options to Frame around Electrical Panel